She grew up there, then studied journalism in college, contemplated grad school after getting her degree, but wound up returning to California and attending the Southern California School of Culinary Arts. “I began using whole grains in our breads and pastries and, for the first time, paid attention to how these new ingredients could transform the way I baked,” she writes in the introduction.īorn in Orange County, CA to immigrant parents - a Thai mother and Costa Rican father - Jullapat lost her mother when she was just two years old her father moved the family to Costa Rica and remarried. Jullapat, the renowned baker and co-owner of Friends & Family in Los Angeles, became inspired by the grain farmers and small mills whose products she worked with back when she and her husband, chef Daniel Mattern, had a restaurant called Cooks County (it opened in 2011). The flavors and textures I’m enjoying are so much better - as is the way I feel about supporting the farmers and millers who make it all possible.īoth Barton Springs Mill and Masienda are part of a larger “grain revolution” - which is the subject of Roxana Jullapat’s outstanding new cookbook, Mother Grains. That has been life-changing for me, as I no longer have to settle for tortillas made from commodity corn and bread made from commodity flour. Outside of baking, I also became obsessed with the heirloom corn sold by Masienda, the Los Angeles-based purveyor that sources its dried corn (and masa harina made from it) from small-scale farms in Mexico. During pandemic I became hooked on the heritage flours offered by a local(ish) miller, Barton Springs Mill. I’m not a frequent bread baker, but when I do make my occasional no-knead, Dutch-oven number, it is always whole grain. Related to that phenomenon is a new interest in grains: where they come from (geographically and historically), who farms them, how they’re milled and how supporting, purchasing, baking or cooking with and eating them can improve lives all around and in many ways. They dove in, devoted themselves to the science and feeding of sourdough, to the baking of bread, and figured it out. Sourdough obsession illustrates that in microcosm. One of those silver linings is that as a society, we seem more able to take some control of our food choices, and we are moving on from long-held assumptions about the foods available to us. Norton & Company, $40.Īs we begin to break through to the liberation side of The Great Confinement, finding the silver linings of what we’re leaving behind feels like a sunny way to try to make sense of the world and what we’ve been through. By Leslie Brenner Mother Grains: Recipes for the Grain Revolution, by Roxana Jullapat photography by Kristin Teig, 2021, W.
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